The Alps - Cols du Lautaret and Galibrier

Thursday 25th June 2009

Statistics

Col du Lautaret - Height 6690ft

Col du Galibrier - Height 9230ft

Height gained - 6955ft

Distance - 70km

Max gradient - 9% and 12 % respectively

Avg Gradient - 3.8% and 8% respectively

If Alpe d'Huez was amongst the most brutal of Tour climbs, then Galibrier is amongst one of the highest. Indeed, it is one of the highest roads in Europe.

The Col du Lautaret is a pass that forms the main road from Grenoble to Briancon and a major traffic route from France into Italy with Turin just a few miles further. The Col d'Izoard climbs out of Briancon and towads Italy which we will climb later on in the training camp.

As you climb from the valley floor, at least the one at the foot of Alpe d'Huez, you pass through dramatic scenery in the Romanche Valley. When you arrive at the 'Barrage du Chambon', another hydroelectric dam, you see the most magificent blue lake stretching into the distance as mountains sides throw themselves up steeply from the blue water. We taste our first experience of cycling through alpine tunnels. Where they are short, it is not a problem. Where they are long they require nerves of steel. The lighting, if present, is not great and not helped if you fail to remove sun shades! As vehicles enter the tunnels you only here a deep rumble approaching and unless a straight tunnel ( not many in hillsides) then you cannot tell initially whether the vehicle is a car or a truck ( makes a diference if it is going to hit you) or whether it is coming towards you or from behind. It was in a 750m tunnel that we had our first altercation with a French truck driver in the aptly named Tunnel do Grand Clot. The driver had clearly received a new Klaxon for his Christmas and was

keen to share this with cyclists as he went by in tunnels. Speaking personally, I am surprised I did not hit the tunnel roof. It was not a pleasant experience. In a wide open space it would have been loud. In an enclosed tunnel barely wide enough for two cars let alone a truck it was surprising in execution and deafeningly audible. I thought about how the Fit One would have reacted and filed that thought for later. The remaining tunnels, of which there were many, became white knuckle affairs and one was motivated to cycle through at pace.

As you climb through the trees with the crystal clear water running alongside the road back down to the lake, the Glaciers of Le Meije check your progress from 12935ft above you. The ice cliffs are a stunning sight , especially when contrasted against the green hill-sides. On this occassion I managed to get Mrs Bigman to agree a coffee stop was appropriate to study the glaciers.

A few switchbacks thrown in for good measure and soon the Col du Lautaret was on the horizon. However, visibility is not always a good thing as it is a long slow climb winding in the horizon.

The Col resembles Sauchiehall Street ( busy city centre street in Glasgow, for international readers and those from Edinburgh who have not yet ventured further west than Livingston) on a Saturday afternoon. Road bikers, lycra clad appear from three roads as they converge at the Col resplendant with tourist tac stalls and a couple of restaurants. There is a common aim for all cyclists and it is the ascend of the Col du Galibrier, a pass over into the Maurienne valley and towards Bourg St Maurice the finish and start point for two stages in the tour this year.

During a descent from the top of Galibrier, the Col was the scene of the first of only three fatalities in the 106 year history of the Tour de France. In 1935 the spanish rider Francesco Cepada crashed there and sufferd head injuries. He died three days later. The Tour last climbed this route in 2008 on the way to Alpe d'Huez.

Quickly after leaving the green pastures, the mountains turn to brown rocky crags on the horizon and snow fields appear by the roadside. You are reminded that you are about to cimb to over 9000ft on your bike as the warm air is diluted with a chilling wind. After a couple of more twists in the road the Klaxon Krew came into sight parked at the side of the road. After quick resume of the feedback repertoire I had heard the Fit One previously deliver in rapid fire resembling a gattling gun shooting words faster than you can shout 'circle the wagons', and then having to work out which I could translate into French, I expressed surprise and dis-satisfaction at his decision to sound his Klaxon in such an inappropriate place. Well, that was the gist of the meaning anyway. It may well have been shortened to Vous etes un idiot accompanied by gesticulations which are universally recognised across Eurpoe.

A portly chap returned fire through his bushy,salad clad, moustache and started to run up the 8% gradient to continue his delivery. It may have been 6 steps, it may have been 8, either way, the intent did not match the reality. I felt he may now realise what it feels like to be Frank Schleck when Lance Armstrong puts his foot down. So much for the entende cordial. Well it was not him who would have to do the washing that night!

You are given no clue as to when and where the col will appear. The constant switching backwards and forwards either has the wind helping you or pushing you backwards and the gradient does not ease. It is 8 km from Col du Lautaret with a max gradient of 12% and average 0f 8% over that 8k. There is no easy way to claim success on Galibrier.

The first Tour de France rider to cross the Col was Emile Georget in 1911. Georget, Paul duboc, and Gustav Gavrigou were the only three riders who did not have to dismount and walk the last part of the climb. No pressure Bigman, I thought.

And then it appears. High above your head, you see cars and campervans forming a snake like line crawling up the route to the top.

You are reminded of Tour history as you pass a memorial to the fouder Henri Desgrange. This is just before you pass a tunnel enabling cars to avoid crossing the Col. Bikes are barred!!!

As I took the penultimate switchback the road raises its game to 12% and there is the professional photographer expecting you to shoot him your best smile through clenched teeth. 'Bon courage' comes back the encouragement as he passes you a web address lest you forget how you are feeling at this moment................. a pain portrait.

I focussed on the team back home and the encouragement they would provide if they were here with me. I stood on the pedals as I rounded the final bend and counted to 50 pedal revolutions and awarded myself a seat again.

Who would know if I replicated his forefathers and walked the last 100 yards? I would. I have climbed 7000ft over 35km without any descent and I am not getting off now.

And there it is. A magnificent view down to the Maurienne Valley.

It is done.

A few minutes spent sharing the excitement of the achievement with fellow champions and it is back down. 35km of down hill ranging from 21% to 4%.

Mrs Bigman has had another brilliant day, savouring some of the worlds most beautiful scenery from the 'comfort' of her saddle. But that is another story!

Tomorrow's ride will feature the Fit One and Santiago whose heroes play a big part on the Tour folklore of Les Deux Alpes, another ski resort Tour finish. But that is for another day.