Memories of Alpine Traning Camp - Mont Ventoux

Wedensday 1st July 2009

Height - 6561ft

Distance - 21km

Height gain - 4500ft

Max gradient - 12%

Avg Gradient - 8%

The forecast was claiming temperatures to exceed 100 degrees fahrenheit over the next week and so we decided to make the three hour car journey to Provence the previous day to allow for an early start for THE BIG ONE.

Having set off around mid-day, we made a Decathlon stop in Orange ( part of a historic family cultural experience) before heading to Bedoin for base camp. Literally. we were staying overnight in a two man tent. The overnight provided the opportunity to have a holiday within a holiday and being between jobs required budget constraint.

First task in Bedoin was to identify a 'suitable' campsite. The first choice was a four star - relative luxury and promoted its passion for nature. Well, that is what I thought it meant. As we drove up the road to the entrance, the enclosed 6 foot wooden fence was a curious observation not previously seen in any campsite we had previously visitied. On arrival at the main gate the reason became clear for a couple of reasons - one the sign was more explicit in its defition of Naturisme and second, if there was still any doubt, a couple in their sixties were making their way to reception. They could not have been going there with the purpose of purchasing anything as there was nowhere to carry money ..... enough said, and a quick u-turn took us to campsite number 2.

The reception hut looked like it had been constructed from driftwood and much green moss type algi covered the visible caravans. Onto site number three and the temperature is approaching 38 degrees .......... outside!

A fine looking swimming pool set overlooking the valley with the reception office a part of the owners villa style accomodation. so far so good. The toilets were clean and well looked after and so we checked in - 11 euros for the night for a tent and two people. Within budget. The initail pitch had some fine views over the valley however the beach type shingle on the hard standing area was not conducive to a comfortable nights sleep. A revised pitch was agred - less scenic however a better nights sleep - we thought!

We walked down to the village to stroll amongst the shops and streets of this village so famous, as the only route up Ventoux used by the Tour because it is the hardest of three access roads. Unrelenting the guide book warned. Bedoin is a beautiful village with picture postcard style restaurants and street cafes. Whilst it does attract road bike cyclists, not in the same volume as the Alps.

We ate at Relait du Mont Ventoux which featured as the Tour passed by this year. The food was superb. A good value 3 course meal for less than 20 Euros. Clearly, only one seating was the custom and we enjoyed sitting on the street side on a balmy summers evening with crickets in the trees, an accordianist playing french stuff in the background. Carbing up in this atmosphere was a great experience.

We returned to the campsite around ten o'clock as the bells in the church told the village the time. I had no idea campanology was a nocturnal exercise.

At eleven, on the chiming of the bells we decided it was time to snuff out the mosquito protection candle and retire to our 'castle' en Provence. we had a big day ahead.

At twelve o'clock, it was assumed that the bell ringers would knock off cos it was getting late. At one o'clock we decided they must really be enjoying this hourly rendition. At two o'clock, the repertoire was twice as long as one o'clock but hardly tuneful. More like a name that tune competiton. I heard the bells at three however woke at 04:10 concerned that something might have happened to the bell ringers as I did not hear the four o'clock bells, only to be re-assured by Mrs Bigman that they had indeed chimed. I relaxed.

At 6:45 we decided to enter the day, gald we would not have to listen to the Bedoin capanoligists practising their limited repertoire for another evening.

Tent packed up and breakfast in the village with fresh croissants and we were on our bikes by 7:45 and even then it was hot. Our thinking was not original. Several cyclists had already started their climb. One of the unique features of Mont Ventoux climb is that 15km of the 21km is in the trees and you have no sense of teh height you are gaining other than messgaes from leg muscles to brain. The first 5km average about 4.5% as you weave your way through vinyards - a gentle warm up. The the fun begins. The next 8km double the average gradiet to 9% with nothing under 8.7% in each km covererd, it is constant, it is wearing. In the Alps the switchabcks offer respite as they generally are almost flat. Not here. The corners resemble the sides of a velodrome track banked high and a gradient count of 10% in themselves! The guide books advise you to take it easy on the lower slopes and use lower gears than planned to avoid burn out before the difficult bits at the top. I needed no second invitation. With no wind in the trees, the flies were a constant nuisance constantly bathing in the torrents of perspiration running down my face, which all added to the 'experience'.

After the first 13km the gradient eases to 7% for 3km which takes you to Chalet Reynard at 1419m. You have 600m to climb over the next 6km. To give local perspective, this is twice the height gain of the Col du Cleish climb in 3/4's of the distance. The thought of coffee quickly dispelled from Bigman's brain, as Mrs Bigman pushed on past onwards to the top effortlessly ........or so it appeared.

At Chalet Reynard, I know we will do it. We still have 'fuel in the tank' and it has taken less than 90 minutes. It is how and the air is noticeably thinner however not unbearable. In a recent blog I read about the Etape de Tour apparently around one third of participants walked some stages of this climb. We are doing well.

The last 5 km give you a good view of the radio mast and buildings at the top however no view of the snaking nature of the road to get there. The white mountain top resembles a road through the desert. Apparently, it was caused by people in medieval times taking the trees from the top to make ships. With the winds synonomous with this area, all the soil was blown away when unprotected and has never grown anything since.

The last 5km has no gradient less than 9% with the last two averaging 9.5% with some stages up to 12%. Tom Martin masked the gradient well as he led the peleton to the top recently however as you watch spectators maintain the pace of the bikes you get some relative perspective of their pace using big cogs to drive forward.

With 2 km to go , you pass the Tom Simpson memorial stone. the British rider who collapsed and died at this spot during the 1967 Tour de France. The records of the event indicate his final instructions were to 'put me back on my bike'.

A quick health check re-assures me, Mrs B has no requirements to learn the whereabouts of the insurance policies!

Mont Ventoux was the scene of a grudge match between seven times Tour winner, Lance Armstrong, and Italy's Marco Pantani in 2000. Pantani was one of cycling's great climbing greats and matching his pace that day helped Armstrong win the Tour. So he allowed Pantani to win the stage. The proud Italian, who died in 2004, never forgave Armstrong for not fighting for the stage win. He said it demeaned his victory.

There is good camaradory amongst cyclists encouraging each other to the top. Past Chalet Reynard, where three acees points come together, everyone has the same aim on this road. To conquer Mont Ventoux. Amongst the biggest and most brutal of climbs in the Tour circuit. This is a mountain where the wind is never you friend as you twist and trun, rocking and rolling up the gradient.

And then you arrive. It is done. With almost a sense of anti-climax, the hardest climb in the tour is done and you have something left in the tank. As you look over the Provence region, you let your mind wander to the Tour gladiators who will fight out, what is expected to be the deciding stage of this years Tour as the penultimate stage of the 2009. Photographs taken, sights swallowed and it is time to leave the tourist shops and stalls and back on the bike for the descent. But not before a couple of French Air Force Mirage jets fly overhead. Both climbing from the valley below, one turns upside down as he flies over, whilst the second flies through the col below the toursit spectators.

The heat haziness means we have limited expectation of clear photographs of the magnificent vista on each side of the the mountain. Below you is the valley of the Rhone, to the south the Mediterranean, and to the east, the Alps. Memories will need to come from within. As we descend wearing our 'I dun it' grin, respect is shown from open shirted, perspiring, panting, cyclists on their way up in what is now 90 degree plus heat.

It has been a great experience to have climbed the BIG ONE.

We celebrated with a coffee in Bedoin before saying our farewells to one of the Tours great climbs knowing that as we watch the penultimate stage of this years Tour live on television, we will have shoulders back and head held high thinking those immortal words of that great Welsh rugby fan , Max Boyce, "I was there".